József Szentesi is one of Hungary’s biggest champions when it comes to re-discovering old grape varieties, and bringing them back into the vineyard and into the glass. Before starting in the wine business, he was an entrepreneur in the freewheeling late 1980s and early 1990s—doing things such as importing pool tables, opening a fitness center, and operating restaurants. When Szentesi started making wine as a hobby in the late 1990s, his winery was literally a garage winery—located in his brother’s auto mechanic shop. Initially Szentesi planned to make only one barrel of wine per year. Today he has 14 hectares planted with nearly 30 grape varieties. His cellar is now located inside of his family’s old house in Budaörs, which was once a village full of vineyards and cellars, which have largely disappeared due to Budapest’s urban sprawl. So Szentesi instead has vineyards in settlements around nearby Lake Velence, where there’s more room to grow. Early on, Szentesi became passionate about researching historical sources, and reintroducing near extinct varieties, with lyrical names which were unknown to everyone except the historians. But he also makes wine from more common varieties, such as this Riesling. This is a full-bodied wine with texture, nice acidity, and good structure. It’s a rich wine, with mineral, floral, and fruit flavors (some peach and apricot). It’s a food-friendly wine, which goes especially well with fried foods or Indian cuisine.