Mura Fehér – Bussay Winery

Tucked away in the far southwestern corner of the country, the Zala region has around 2,000 acres of vineyards planted. Believe it or not, that is’nt even small enough to make it Hungary’s smallest wine region! Zala is Hungary’s third smallest wine region (after Somló and Pannonhalma.) Zala borders Austria, Slovenia, and Croatia. It is characterized by gentle, rolling hills; lots of greenery and wildlife; and scattered patches of vineyards, which are sometimes hidden in forests. Its proximity to the Austrian Alps gives the region a cooler climate than that of nearby Lake Balaton. This cooler continental climate makes for rich, elegant wines with crisp acidity, lots of aromas and fruitiness in the glass, and moderate alcohol. Slovenia and Croatia are just a stone throw away, and influences from these countries show in the style of the cellars, the culinary traditions, and the wine styles.

Winemaking here dates back to the Celts, continued with the Romans, and was then taken up by different ethnic groups, including Hungarians. The region developed great fame for its ürmös bor (a local version of vermouth) in the 1700s, which was made from aromatic red grapes and herbs. In the late 1800s winemakers in Zala began focusing on table grapes, and the region slowly became overshadowed by Lake Balaton’s wine regions. This is perhaps why Zala is such a charming place to visit today—with untouched forests, unique wildlife, traditional thatched houses, and plentiful pastures of cows and sheep. The locals take great pride in foraging for herbs, mushrooms, and berries, which often show up in the region’s culinary specialties.

The soil here is mostly rich black forest soil, mixed with clay and loess. About three-quarters of the grapes are white varieties, with Olaszrizling being the most popular. There’s also a good amount of Riesling, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, and Grüner Veltliner. Pinot Noir is the most important red, and there is also some Kékfrankos, Csókaszőlő, and Syrah. Zala wines were traditionally aged in large oak casks and kept in simple thatched wooden barns.

This sleepy wine region was put on modern Hungary’s wine map by the late Dr. László Bussay. He was 29 when he finished medical school, and started his own practice in the area. His dream was always to make his own wine, like his grandfather. In 1989 he found a perfect spot, where he built his family home and winery, surrounded by a five hectare estate with breathtaking views of the vineyard-covered hills. László Bussay received numerous awards for his wines, as well as for his work in promoting the Zala region.