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Tóth Ferenc, Leányka 2023-24

Leányka is an old Hungarian variety which originated in Transylvania, which was once part of Austro-Hungary and is now in Romania. The name translates as “maiden” or “little girl,” and it is thought that the name was given during Hungary’s War of Independence (1848-1849) when villagers were unable to pay priests for services such as baptisms or weddings. So, when a child was baptized, the priests were paid in vines which were planted into the Church’s vineyards. Many girls were born, as was a new grape variety, which the priests decided to name after the child whose parents had planted the most vines in her honor. Naturally, this led to some conflict, so to please everyone, they chose the name ’Leányka’ for the new grape. Leányka grows in a few Hungarian regions (though it is not as popular as it once was), but does best in Eger, where the limestone soil enables it to ripen fully and retain acidity. This Leányka has an array of floral and herbal aromas (lemongrass, cannabis, mint, grass) and fruity ones (citrus, pear, quince, gooseberry), as well as a bit of flintiness. It is bone dry on the palate, with zesty lemon, pear, and green apple flavors—the same herbal notes that we get on the nose. There’s a lingering flavor of green apple jolly ranchers (which …

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One of Hungary’s red wine bastions, Eger, the home of Bikavér (aka Bull’s Blood), also boasts a diverse geological make-up which includes rhyolite tuff. It is also Hungary’s northernmost red-wine-producing region. Historic vineyards planted on these volcanic rocks make some of the biggest, fieriest wines in the region. As in Tokaj, this tuff lends itself perfectly to the carving of cellars. It hosts 99 percent of Eger’s cellars, including networks of passages dozens of miles long and the famous cellars under the city’s fortified castle.

Although historically a white wine land like its volcanic counterparts, red varieties displaced the whites and finally after the blight of phylloxera, Eger’s flagship red blend, Egri Bikavér, attained a worldwide reputation at the start of the 20th century. Winemakers here take this traditional blend seriously.
It has improved tremendously and has little in common with those past Bikavér’s which were exported to the West during the Communist-era of mass-produced wine. Varietals that find their way into Bikavér are Kékfrankos (Blaufrankish), Pinot Noir, Portugieser, Merlot, and Kadarka, and all of these are also bottled as single varietal wines.

At the start of the 21st century, Bikavér gained a white partner, Egri Csillag (‘Star of Eger’). Approximately 50 percent of the region’s vineyards are planted with white grapes and as no one variety dominates, so it was logical to make Egri Csillag a blend, in keeping with the region’s traditions. It is a very variable blend based on Carpathian-basin varieties, such as Olaszrizling, Hárslevelű, Leányka, Királyleányka, Zengő, Zenit and some Hungarian crossings. A minimum of four of these varieties must be included and make up at least 50 percent of the blend and each must represent a minimum of 5 percent. The blend may also include up to 30 percent of fragrant Muscat varieties, such as Cserszegi Füszeres, Zefír, Irsai Oliver, Tramini and Muscat Ottonel. With their blend of history, volcanic minerality, and native varietals, there’s a lot to explore in Eger’s cellars.

Ferenc Tóth—usually referred to as Feri bácsi, or “Uncle Frank”—was born and raised in Eger, and now has nearly seven decades of harvests under his belt. Tóth made his first Bikavér (Bull’s Blood) at the age of 16. But under the Communist regime, he wasn’t allowed to be a winemaker. Instead he worked in construction, but always made wine on the side. In 1983 Tóth and his wife, Marika, were able to acquire a 1.5 hectare vineyard, and started their little family winery. The Tóth family now has 30 hectares of vineyards on some of Eger’s best slopes, and the next generation joined the winery—their daughter, Katalin, and her husband. Ferenc Tóth is a big advocate of the Kadarka grape. He was named “Winemaker of the Year in Eger 2012,” and the family always aims to keep a balance between preserving the old-school Eger styles and traditions, while using the most modern technology, to make outstanding wines.

Country 1-2
bottles		 3-6
bottles		 7-12
bottles		 13-18
bottles		 19-24
bottles		 25-30
bottles		 31-36
bottles
Austria 8,100 Ft 9,500 Ft 12,800 Ft 23,500 Ft 25,600 Ft 35,100 Ft 38,400 Ft
Belgium 9,200 Ft 11,900 Ft 15,800 Ft 27,700 Ft 33,500 Ft 45,400 Ft 47,400 Ft
Bulgaria 5,900 Ft 7,600 Ft 10,400 Ft 18,000 Ft 33,500 Ft 41,100 Ft 31,200 Ft
Croatia 6,500 Ft 8,000 Ft 11,400 Ft 19,400 Ft 33,500 Ft 41,500 Ft 34,200 Ft
Czech Republic 6,500 Ft 8,500 Ft 12,500 Ft 21,000 Ft 33,500 Ft 42,000 Ft 37,500 Ft
Denmark 8,900 Ft 13,400 Ft 18,600 Ft 32,000 Ft 33,500 Ft 46,900 Ft 55,800 Ft
Estonia 10,200 Ft 14,900 Ft 20,500 Ft 35,400 Ft 41,000 Ft 55,900 Ft 61,500 Ft
Finland 15,700 Ft 20,000 Ft 26,700 Ft 46,700 Ft 53,400 Ft 73,400 Ft 80,100 Ft
France 10,100 Ft 13,400 Ft 17,800 Ft 31,200 Ft 35,600 Ft 49,000 Ft 53,400 Ft
Germany 7,800 Ft 9,800 Ft 13,800 Ft 23,600 Ft 27,600 Ft 37,400 Ft 41,400 Ft
Greece
(mainland)		 11,800 Ft 16,500 Ft 22,700 Ft 39,200 Ft 45,400 Ft 61,900 Ft 68,100 Ft
Hungary
(outside of Budapest)		 4,500 Ft 4,700 Ft 6,800 Ft 11,900 Ft 14,500 Ft 19,200 Ft 20,400 Ft
Hungary
(Budapest)		 4,500 Ft 4,700 Ft 6,800 Ft 11,900 Ft 14,500 Ft 19,200 Ft 20,400 Ft
Ireland 10,200 Ft 15,900 Ft 22,600 Ft 38,500 Ft 45,200 Ft 61,100 Ft 67,800 Ft
Italy 8,900 Ft 10,900 Ft 13,900 Ft 24,800 Ft 27,800 Ft 38,700 Ft 41,700 Ft
Latvia 8,100 Ft 11,900 Ft 16,900 Ft 28,800 Ft 33,800 Ft 45,700 Ft 50,700 Ft
Lithuania 7,500 Ft 10,600 Ft 15,100 Ft 25,700 Ft 30,200 Ft 40,800 Ft 45,300 Ft
Luxembourg 8,800 Ft 10,900 Ft 14,900 Ft 25,800 Ft 29,800 Ft 40,700 Ft 44,700 Ft
Netherlands 8,100 Ft 10,800 Ft 14,700 Ft 25,500 Ft 29,400 Ft 40,200 Ft 44,100 Ft
Poland 5,600 Ft 7,100 Ft 10,900 Ft 18,000 Ft 21,800 Ft 28,900 Ft 32,700 Ft
Portugal 8,400 Ft 12,900 Ft 18,900 Ft 31,800 Ft 37,800 Ft 50,700 Ft 56,700 Ft
Romania 6,800 Ft 8,900 Ft 12,900 Ft 21,800 Ft 25,800 Ft 34,700 Ft 38,700 Ft
Slovakia 6,100 Ft 7,800 Ft 10,900 Ft 18,700 Ft 21,800 Ft 29,600 Ft 32,700 Ft
Slovenia 6,900 Ft 8,900 Ft 12,500 Ft 21,400 Ft 25,000 Ft 33,900 Ft 37,500 Ft
Spain 10,200 Ft 14,900 Ft 20,500 Ft 35,400 Ft 41,000 Ft 55,900 Ft 61,500 Ft
Sweden 10,900 Ft 15,600 Ft 21,900 Ft 37,500 Ft 43,800 Ft 59,400 Ft 65,700 Ft
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