The Somló region might be small but it produces, arguably, Hungary’s strongest terroir-driven wines. The region basically consists of a single hill, which is an extinct volcano. Millions of years ago, when the Pannonian sea covered today’s Hungary, Somló was an underwater volcano. The volcanic basalt soil remained, to the great benefit of winemakers. All of winemaker Károly Kolonics’ wines are made the same way. There is skin contact for between six and 12 hours before pressing, and the wine is fermented in old barrels with wild yeast. However, all of his wines taste very different from each other. But they are all classic textbook Somló-style wines, showing off the region’s strong volcanic soil. This Hárslevelű shows the variety’s classic white flower aromas, along with a strong minerality, high acidity, and medium body. If you have never tasted a volcanic wine from Somló, this is a perfect place to start.