But it produces, arguably, Hungary’s strongest terroir-driven wines. The region basically consists of a single hill, an extinct volcano. Millions of years ago, when the Pannonian sea covered today’s Hungary, Somló was an under-water volcano. The volcanic basalt soil remained, to the benefit of winemakers. The Juhfark grape variety is believed to have originated on the Somló hill, and has become the iconic variety-of-choice for local winemakers. Juhfark is a tricky variety everywhere else because it lacks personality and flavor. But in Somló, it reflects the volcanic flavors of the place. It’s the perfect mirror-grape, showing exactly what the region is about. It’s name—Juh means sheep and fark means tail—comes from the sheep tail shape of the grape cluster. 2018 was an “almost-perfect year,” according to Károly Kolonics. “It was all going perfectly well until the first week of September, when strong rain came. Those who harvested before the rains could produce great wines.” This Juhfark comes from the southeastern facing Gyűr vineyard. The wine has aromas of mint, ripe white peaches, and white flowers. It is fresh, long, mineral, and extraordinary. The salty minerality and the intensity of the flavors are a classic Somló touch. Enjoy it next to grilled fish or duck, sushi, or Thai cuisine.