Péter Vida is the master of subtle Szekszárd wines in a southern Hungarian region where balance and finesse are often hard to come by. The Hidespetre is a nicely protected, south-facing vineyard with mainly Szekszárd’s trademark loess and red clay soil, with significant limestone content in places. In a challenging vintage such as 2014, the vineyard survived the worst the elements could throw at it while the resulting wine really captures the essence of the cool vintage. This is a taut, supremely elegant yet earthy and complex Kékfrankos with appealing fine-grained tannins. The emphasis is more or herbal, balsamic and spicy notes rather than fresh fruit, although there’s also some of Kékfrankos’s classic sour cherry to flesh out the long palate. Medium-bodied yet full of excitement and individuality. Aged mainly in used 300 liter barrels with the oak beautifully integrated.