The Mátra region, located about 100 kilometers east of Budapest, is a long over-looked region which is now starting to get some of the attention it deserves. The region is Hungary’s second largest, and one of the country’s oldest. Post-Communism the region was dominated by a few very large wineries, producing bulk wine, a lot of which was exported. So the region’s small producers didn’t have much of a chance to make names for themselves. Thankfully that is starting to change, with winemakers like Centurio’s Balázs Ludányi shining with their unique wines. Centurio has three hectares of vineyards, and Ludányi has noted that he is a maximalist in the vineyard, and a minimalist in the cellar. Mátra is mostly a white wine region. This “Estate Wine” is a blend of Pinot Gris, and Zenit. The job of an estate wine is to show the overall style of a winery. According to Ludányi, he doesn’t have a standard recipe, but makes different winemaking decisions every year with this wine, always keeping the quality in mind. The wine was spontaneously fermented and barrel-aged for three months. It has bright freshness, with some complexity from the volcanic soil. On the nose, it has chamomile flowers, hay, dried flowers, and some citrus. It has a very floral and fruity start, with an unexpectedly dry finish. The crisp acidity and medium body make this a very food friendly wine. Try it with roasted chicken or grilled fish.